Adolfo Sardinia

new_york_designer_adolfo_sardinia
Adolfo Sardinia
Occupation:
Birthplace:
Havana, Cuba
Nationality:
Cuba, United States
Gender:
Male

Biography

Adolfo Sardiña(born 15 February 1933, Havana, Cuba), professionally known asAdolfo, is a Cuban-born American fashion designer who started out as a milliner in the 1950s. While chief designer for the wholesale milliners Emme, he won theCoty Awardand theNeiman Marcus Fashion Award. In 1963 he set up his own salon in New York, firstly as a milliner, and then focusing on clothing. He retired from fashion design in 1993.

His mother was Irish; his father Spanish.He attended the St Ignacio de Loyola Jesuit School in Havana and served in the Cuban Army.In 1948 Adolfo immigrated to New York.

With financial help fromBill Blass,Adolfo opened his first salon in New York in 1963, where he met many of the customers who would become his patrons when he gave up millinery to focus on clothing. He had met the Duchess of Windsor by 1965, through whom he met regular customersBetsy Bloomingdale, Babe PaleyandNancy Reagan.After Mainbocher retired, one of his highest-profile clients,C. Z. Guest, came to Adolfo to make her clothes instead.Adolfo’s clothes were designed to complement his hats, which the designer saw as an optional accessory rather than a wardrobe essential.

At first Adolfo’s extravagant, elaborately ornamental clothing seemed at odds with the relaxed principles behind American sportswear.He created individually beautiful garments designed to be worn together or separately, commenting in 1968 that “one has to dress in bits and pieces — the more the merrier.”His 1960s “fun and fantasy” looks included richly embellished bolero jackets, organdy blouses, and evening ensembles made from antique patchwork quilts which were worn by the likes ofGloria Vanderbilt.In 1969 Adolfo won another Coty Award.That year, he claimed that classic clothing no longer appealed to the consumer, but soon afterwards, drastically changed his design approach to offer quietly understated clothing such as fur-trimmed knitwear, pyjama suits and ballgown skirts paired with sweaters.He started selling knitted dresses to the department stores Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

In the summer of 1966 Adolfo had returned to Chanel to serve another unpaid apprenticeship,and would openly acknowledge her influence on his work.Adolfo’s “Chanel jackets” and knit daywear became best-selling designs from the early 1970s onwards, and a design signature throughout his career.In 1978 he launched Adolfo Menswear Inc. and Adolfo Scarves Inc, and in 1979, a perfume line.

Adolfo became a member of theCouncil of Fashion Designers of Americain 1982.

In 1993, at the age of 60, Adolfo decided to retire from fashion design and rely on the income from his licensing agreements with various manufacturers.Licensed Adolfo merchandise, including menswear, hats and accessories, luggage, sportswear, furs and perfume, was retailed widely at all consumer levels fromBloomingdale‘s through toJ. C. Penneyand the television shopping networkQVC.In 1993, Adolfo’s licensing agreements for perfume sales alone had a wholesale return of over 5 million dollars.By 2014, Adolfo was once again designing for his ready-to-wear clothing lines.

 

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